Electrical System

Battery

• Put the rubber pad at the bottom of the battery carrier.
• Drop the battery in place and connect the cables, red to '+' and black to '-'. The fat rubber loop is to hold down the battery.

Note: Some owners have relocated the battery to the sidecar trunk. You can use the same battery carrier, however you will need to install longer battery cables and drill a hole in the side of the sidecar trunk for the cables. Remember to line the hole with a rubber grommet, some silicon caulk, or the like. You do not want to cut trough the insulation and short the battery cables. Also, the only battery suitable for placing in the trunk is a sealed battery, otherwise the gases escaping the battery will gradually damage the inside of the trunk.

Charging system

Generator

M1: Generator

Installation (M1)

• The generator fits into the cradle on top of the engine.
• Put a dab or grease or some oil on the end of the generator shaft and on the gear.
• Loosen the generator mounting clamp at both bottom bolts and remove the top clamp bolt.
• Holding the generator so that the electrical connection is on the right side of the engine, slide the unit into the big hole in the front of the engine. You may have to tap it to get it all the way in. When inserted all the way, the two 'ears' that stick out in the front will clear the starter hold down clamp.
• Install the hold down clamp and tighten up the three bolts.

Note: Some engines (like mine) have been machined so that the O-ring on the generator does not seal well. That will cause engine oil to weep down all over the top of the engine and make a mess. I cured the problem by using silicon gasket goo around the generator. The result was no more leaks. Don't do this unless you have to, because it will make the generator harder to remove if you ever have to work on it.

Alternator

M1M/M1S: Alternator

Installation

• Unscrew the two screws that hold on the alternator cover at the front of the engine.
• Attach the wires to the alternator. The three white wires (on some bikes these three wires are red) go to the three connectors in a row at the top of the alternator. The blue wire attaches to the 'J+' connector, and the black wire goes to the 'N' connector. There is one connector left over (A+)which is not used.
• Reinstall the cover.

See the wiring diagrams for more details. Is this entry right? I am pretty sure it's weak if not entirely incorrect.

Voltate regulator

M1: Voltage regulator

M1M/M1S: Voltage regulator
Which part is the voltage regulator for an M1M/M1S???

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Note: The original voltage regulator is mechanical. This is fine if all you do is putter around the streets of Beijing at 35 mph. If you go out cruising at a higher speed, the vibration will eventually kill this unit, and often wreck the alternator in the process. Alternators are expensive. The rectifier bridge that comes with the bike is enormous, but fairly robust. The two units can be replaced with a much smaller, solid state universal-fit module available from Dennis Kirk, Inc. You can also replace just the rectifier, and you can replace the voltage regulator with a Bosch unit from an early 1970's BMW or VW (but not a bug). I use a replacement sold in the U.S.A. by Standard Motor Products. The Standard regulator is number SMP VR124. The black wires goes to ground. The green wire connects to black wire on the bike, and the red wire connects to the black/white wire. You will have to come up with some form of wire connectors, or you can just solder the wires together. I would strongly suggest making this conversion as soon as possible. Your bike will be more reliable.

Distributor

M1: Distributor

M1M/M1S: Distributor

Gap Checking and Adjusting (M1)

The distributor should be kept clean. The platinum contacts should be free from dust and lube (oil) contamination. The contacting area of the contact should not be less than 80% and the centers of upper and lower contacts should align with each other. The distributor of engine CJ-750, installed in the front end cover of crankcase, is of FDQ-1 type, whose contact gap is adjusted as follows (see Fig.8).

• Remove crankcase front cover and distributor cover.
• Rotate camshaft to a certain position by applying kick starter and take off distributor disk.
• Rise camshaft by applying kick starter to separate platinum contacts.
• Loosen the securing screw, adjust platinum contact gap to 0.4-0.45mm by turning the platinum contact adjusting screw, and then tighten the

securing screw.

• Turn cam 180 more by applying kick starter and check contact gap at the other end to see whether it meets requirement.

Installation (M1M and M1S)

Properly speaking, this unit is not a distributor, but merely a housing for the points. The distributor plugs into a large round hole, mounted at an angle at the left front top of the engine block. A spur gear on the camshaft turns the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft.

• Rotate the engine to 6 degrees before top dead center (see timing instructions, below).
• Remove the nut, washer and lock nut from the distributor timing hold down stud.
• If possible, hold the engine so that it is standing on the right cylinder head. As ridiculous and dangerous as this sounds, it's the best way to do this operation. You can mount the engine on an engine stand or block it in place with blocks of wood. You can even hang it on a rope from a garage rafter.
• Loosen the timing locking screw on the bracket attached to the bottom of the distributor so that the distributor can turn in the bracket.
• Put a dab of grease on the bottom of the distributor shaft.
• Find a spot where either cam lobe is just barely opening the points.
• Now drop the distributor into place in the hole, being careful that the slot in the locking bracket goes over the stud on the engine case. * * * Make sure the distributor and bracket are seated all the way into the hole. You may have to do this a few times to get the distributor seated all the way. Try rotating the distributor. If the cam stays put when the body of the distributor rotates, the shaft is engaged.
• Put the nut, washer and lock washer on the stud and tighten it up with the timing bracket slot right in the middle of its range.
• Now rotate the distributor until the points just start to open. This is best observed with a volt/ohm meter, continuity checker, or a piece of cigarette paper. Put the cigarette paper between the closed points. When the points just barely begin to open, the cigarette paper can be pulled out easily. This is the way people timed engines in the 1930's.
• Tighten the clamp screw on the locking bracket. The timing should be close enough to start the engine.
• Carefully return the engine to its proper upright position.

Ignition system

Coil

M1: Coil

M1M/M1S: Coil

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Starter

M1M/M1S: Starter

Installation (M1M/M1S, M1 has no starter)

Installation:

• The starter fits into the cradle on top of the engine.
• Put a dab or grease or some oil on the end of the starter shaft and on the gear.
• Loosen the starter mounting clamp at both bottom bolts and remove the top clamp bolt.
• Holding the starter so that the electrical connection is on the right side of the engine, slide the unit into the big hole in the front of the engine. You may have to tap it to get it all the way in. When inserted all the way, the two 'ears' that stick out in the front will clear the starter hold down clamp.
• Install the hold down clamp and tighten up the three bolts.

Note: Some engines (like mine) have been machined so that the O-ring on the starter does not seal well. That will cause engine oil to weep down all over the top of the engine and make a mess. I cured the problem by using silicon gasket goo around the starter. The result was no more leaks. Don't do this unless you have to, because it will make the starter harder to remove if you ever have to work on it.

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Fuses / Relays

M1/M1M/M1S uses a single 20 amp fuse to protect the wiring/battery from short circuits. The original location for the fuse is inside the headlight bucket, at the top, next to the ignition key. Many restored bikes have relocated the fuse into a fuse holder which is generally located underneath the front seat, near the battery. Some CJ users have used 30 amp Harley self resetting circuit breakers [[Does this mean Harley-Davidson? I can't locate a link for this part on the web.]].

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Accessories

Lighting system

The lights are controlled by rotating the master control switch. When the ignition key is in the daytime running mode, no lights are on. The following table shows the lights which are on in the four positions of the light switch when the key is in the nighttime running mode:

I believe that position 4 is for the hazards/flashers/emergency lights, but my bike is not wired that way.

The flasher unit for the M1 can be replaced with a Jin Yi Co., Ltd. Round Flasher Unit (6v). VT No. 33-0398. 71-86FX, 65-86FL, 65-88XL.

Headlight

Accessing the headlight requires opening up the headlight bucket. This is done by unscrewing a single screw at the bottom of the bucket. The headlight which comes with a stock CJ is not a sealed beam headlight.

M1/M1M/M1S: Headlight

Installation

The headlight that comes with the kit is not a sealed beam unit and will not pass inspection in most states. Replace M1 headlights with sealed beam unit #6006 (General Electric Part Number) and M1M and M1S headlights with sealed beam unit #6014 (General Electric Part Number) or #6024 (General Electric Part Number).

• Remove the screw at the bottom of the headlight rim. Remove the old unit (if installed) from the rim by carefully unclipping the springs with a needle-nose pliers. There are eight.
• Install the new sealed beam bulb noting that 12 o'clock on the bulb is at 12 o'clock in the rim. You cannot put clips right at the top of the bulb, or the rim will not fit in the shell. Space the four pair of clips around the bulb, as closely as possible in opposite pairs.
• While the headlight shell is apart, make sure the connections to the electrical components inside are tight. This applies mainly to the connections held in place by Phillips-head screws.
• Reinstall the rim. You will have to push on it a little bit.

If you are going to install a high beam indicator light, do it while the headlight is removed.

Tail Light

M1/M1M/M1S: Taillight

Sidecar Lighting

M1/M1M/M1S: Sidecar Lights

Turn Signals

M1 uses the #1129 (General Electric Part Number) [[????]]

M1/M1M/M1S: Turn Signal

While there are several different styles of turn signals, from the modern rectangular style to the vintage bullet style, they all, not surprisingly, are wired the same way.

Switches

Master control switch what is the name for this item?

The master control switch in the M1 (maybe other variations) has the horn wired in a way that might not be expected. While the other items (turn signals, lights, etc.) are wired to the negative terminal (through the key) the horn is connected to ground. In other words, the wire coming from the master control goes to one connection on the horn and the other connection on the horn goes to negative, NOT ground; this is the opposite of what you might expect. Also, the way that it connects to ground is through a screw which grounds the handlebars to the switch cover to a switch for the horn. If the screw is not present it may not be grounded and your horn may not work, which you also may not expect.

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Horn

M1: Horn

M1M/M1S: Horn

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Wiring Harness

M1/M1M/M1S: Wiring Harness

Must be other wiring harnesses for M1M and M1S

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